“The Wall”
A look at how we built our own wall for the studio to use for a whole manor of different photo shoots.
Inspiration
Inspiration for this came from Mark Seligers Oscar Portraits a few years ago. I just loved the weathered walls , yet modern twist to it.
Images © Mark Seliger
The wall being constructed
We made panels similar to wall panels in a house. Using tongue & groove we then built up the top layer which thanks to a strong vertical piece ( the spine of the wall ) allowing us to fasten it all together. We will at some point add a further piece to extend the top T section.
Building Versatility: How I Made My Three-Sided L-Shaped Wall for Photography
As photographers, we’re always chasing versatility—whether it’s finding the perfect light, the right lens, or, in this case, the ultimate backdrop. I recently decided to up my studio game by building a three-sided, T-shaped wall that’s not just functional but endlessly adaptable. It’s been a game-changer for my portrait work, offering multiple looks, textures, and tones, all on one movable structure.
Want to know how I did it? Let me take you through the process.
Why Build an L or T-Shaped Wall?
If you’ve ever wrestled with backdrop limitations, you’ll understand the frustration.
An L or T -shaped wall gives you:
Multiple Backgrounds in One Setup: With three sides, I can switch between different painted finishes in seconds.
Customizable Style: Each side can be painted, textured, or styled to suit the shoot.
Mobility: Mounted on castors, the wall is easy to move, rotate, and reposition.
Height Advantage: At 9ft tall, it’s ideal for full-length portraits or dramatic headshots.
Creative Freedom: The possibilities are endless—paint, wallpaper, or even fabric can transform the space.
The Wall Design
Structure: It’s a three-sided, L-shaped wall. Imagine a capital “L” lying on its side ( almost a T anyway, we are extending the third side this year)
Height: Standing at an impressive 9ft, it’s perfect for studio setups.
Sides: One side is painted a moody green-grey, inspired by the Oscar backdrop from a few years ago. Another is bold red (for those drama-filled shots), and the third remains unpainted, ready for experimentation.
Mobility: The whole structure is mounted on sturdy castors, making it easy to turn, roll, and reposition as needed.
How I Built It
1. Planning and Materials
Before picking up a hammer, I sketched out the design. The goal was to keep it lightweight yet sturdy enough to stand on its own. I used:
Timber frames: For the basic skeleton of the wall.
Plywood sheets: For the panels—lightweight but durable.
Castors: Heavy-duty wheels for mobility.
Brackets and Screws: To secure everything in place.
Paint and Primer: For the finishing touches.
2. Building the Frame
The T-shape was created by building two panels—one for the vertical spine and another for the horizontal arms. The key was ensuring the spine was securely attached to the base for stability. A combination of long screws and tongue & groove did the trick.
3. Adding the Panels
The plywood panels were cut to size and attached to the timber frame. The main side we added edging strips to the inside of each panel for a more refined look.
4. Mobility Upgrade
To make the wall easily maneuverable, I attached heavy-duty castors to the base. These allow me to rotate the wall or move it entirely, depending on the shoot. We also hid the castors by recessing them and using skirting board to hide them from the front.
This video shows Kristie & I with a little help from a builder ( doing some work next door) putting the panels together.
The Painted Finishes
Here’s where the fun began!
The Green-Grey Side
This side was my personal labour of love. Inspired by the iconic Oscar backdrop used by photographer Mark Seliger a few years ago, I wanted a moody, sophisticated finish that could work for fine art portraits or editorial shoots. The process was all about layering and distressing to create depth and texture.
I used five layers of paint, applying them in reverse order to achieve the look. Starting with a deep base coat of grey I added, blue, yellow & white. Then an overall top layer of light grey finishing with green. Then after thoroughly drying I sanded through each layer to different depths to bring through different colours to give a depth to the wall and that feeling of it being old.
This video shows you how I applied different layers of paint working the paint into the areas I wanted it to show once sanded through.
The top green layer going on
This clip shows me using different methods to sand through the colour. Hand sanders to sand paper , scrapers & tools to scratch and dent the surface.
I bought some cheap stencils from amazon to add a little hidden flair
The finished wall in all its glory
The Red Side
For a bold, energetic option, I went with a striking red. This was a much simpler process—just a solid, matte red with a bit of texture from the brushwork. It’s all about creating drama and vibrancy.
The Unpainted Side
The third side remains a blank canvas. Whether I experiment with plaster textures, gradients, or metallic finishes, it’s there to fuel my creativity.
How I Use It in My Photography
This wall has become an indispensable tool in my studio. Here’s why:
Quick Transitions: Need a moody look? Spin the wall to the green-grey side. Want something bold? Roll it to the red. No downtime.
Creative Flexibility: I can repaint or retexture the sides as needed. This means I’m never stuck with one look.
Space Saver: Instead of multiple backdrops taking up precious studio space, this one wall does it all.
Hanging Backdrops: I also have a variety of canvas backdrops ( I am also making one at the moment! ) I also use these and hang them from the wall, using bits of the panels and wall together to create a different look.
By shooting my portraits on a 90mm lens and keeping to wide apertures I can really soften the wall also making the backdrops blend together
Lessons Learned
Stability is Key: A 9ft wall needs to be rock solid. I reinforced the base to ensure it wouldn’t wobble during shoots.
Choose Paint Carefully: Matte, non-reflective paint works best for photography. Avoid anything too glossy.
Castors Are a Lifesaver: Don’t skip the wheels—mobility is what makes this wall so versatile.
Layering Paint Works Wonders: For the green-grey side, working backwards is needed , so the colour you want to show least and last you paint on first! This added depth and character I couldn’t have achieved otherwise.
Depending upon how I light it it gives me a different look every time. Hanging back drops off it also gives a unique combination in texture and style.
Not easy but worth a go!
Whether you’re shooting portraits, fashion, or fine art, a three-sided T-shaped wall is a fantastic addition to any studio. It’s cost-effective, customizable, and a massive time-saver during shoots. Plus, there’s something incredibly satisfying about using a backdrop you built yourself.
If you’re feeling inspired, grab some timber, a drill, and a paintbrush, and get building! And if you’ve got questions—or want to share your own backdrop ideas—I’d love to hear from you.
Now, if you’ll excuse me, I think it’s time to paint that third side…
